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perto de Kaloí Lákkoi, Crete (Greece)
Leaving the bicycle a pair of kms below the end of the road, I start to walk in direction Kakovoli. Although not among the highest mountains, it looks truly impressive, thanks to its mighty bare flank, from certain spots of the Ammoutsera valley.
I descend to the little Goniasmata, a hump on the saddle north of Kakovoli. Skirting the Pavlia Chalara, which is perhaps the most rugged place of the Lefka Ori, I climb the Askyfiotikos Soros. Descent through its N side to the E4 path, which leads shortly to the pass of Sideroportes, followed by the subsequent, somewhat higher saddle between Grias Soros and Agio Pneuma.
Wanting to sleep on the top of Agio Pneuma, but having run out of water, I take on a long detour to reach the mitato at Livada, which I find inhabited by a shepherd coming from Morocco. I reach the top of Agio Pneuma only at sunset. The wind suggests to spend the night sheltered by the walls of the roofless chapel, where I also mount my tunnel tent due to a temperature which is fairly low for my very light sleeping bag.
The following morning, traverse to Grias Soros, meeting the track of the day before at the saddle. The next summit is Mesa Soros, few metres higher, followed by Svourikti. The very summit of this bulky mountain is not especially interesting. Much better is a panoramic point lying NW, and dominating the Livada region. From Svourikti I traverse to Sternes via the col between the latter and little Zouridia.
I argue that the latter could be a good low observation point in the very heart of the Lefka Ori, such I found out to be Modaki in 2011, but I decide to leave it for the next time...
From Sternes I descend to Roussies. Leaving the backpack short above, I rush to the last mountain of the day, namely Pachnes. I give a nostalgic look to the summit shelter where I had slept in 2011, not knowing that I will sleep there only four days later, climbing the mountain from Agia Roumeli via the Eligias gorge. I return to the road and to the bicycle. Long descent to Anopoli, just in time for a dinner in my favourite restaurant, namely Platanos in front of the Daskalogiannis monument.
Note that this itinerary is far less demanding as the previous one that I published, featuring the Tripiti gorge and the long ridge of Katsaromoura. However, it conveys with a relatively low expense of energies a wonderful experience in the heart of these unique mountains.
Photos; WORK IN PROGRESS!