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próximo a Gornyy Sadovod, Almaty Oblysy (Kazakhstan)
The normal ascent route to Komsomol Peak combines a glacier section with a final rock climbing section. This combination makes it a very complete and enjoyable trail.
Three ski lifts will take you from Medeu ice stadium and car park (1600 m) to Shymbulak ski resort (2300 m) and then to Talgar Pass (3200 m).
There are several possible camp sites in the area, those at 2960 m, 3200 m and 3500 m have been marked as waypoints.
The glacier is climbed all the way up from the point where you leave the moraine, at approximately 3500 m (see waypoint), until the Komsomol Pass, at 4040 m. We didn´t see any major crack in the glacier, but there were, both sides of it, clear signs of avalanches (see pictures). Therefore it´s advisable to keep away from its steep sides.
The final rocky section starts at approximately 4150 m and ends at the Komsomol summit. It is fully equipped with brand new bolts and with some steel steps. Following the route is quite straight forward, except for a couple of times when you will need to look for the next bolt, or at a point where there is an apparent choice between two lines of bolts/steps. Consider that in this part of the trail the accuracy of the GPS device is very limited, as many satellites are covered by the wall.
Both the glacier and the rocky sections are not specially complicated or difficult, but it may be quite tricky to navigate them in bad weather conditions, and late afternoon thunderstorms are usual.
Grade according to Russian difficulty scale : 2a